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In 2011 when Alice Feiring first arrived in Georgia, she felt as if she’d emerged from the magic wardrobe into a world filled with mythical characters making exotic and delicious wine with the low-tech methods of centuries past. She was smitten, and she wasn’t alone. This country on the Black Sea has an unusual effect on people; the most passionate rip off their clothes and drink wines out of horns while the cold-hearted well up with tears and make emotional toasts. Visiting winemakers fall under Georgia’s spell and bring home qvevris (clay fermentation vessels) while rethinking their own techniques. But, as in any good fairy tale, Feiring sensed that danger rode shotgun with the magic. With acclaim and growing international interest come threats in the guise of new wine consultants aimed at making wines more commercial. So Feiring fought back in the only way she knew how: by celebrating Georgia and the men and women who make the wines she loves most, those made naturally with organic viticulture, minimal intervention, and no additives. From Tbilisi to Batumi, Feiring meets winemakers, bishops, farmers, artists, and silk spinners. She feasts, toasts, and collects recipes. She encounters the thriving qvevri craftspeople of the countryside, wild grape hunters, and even Stalin’s last winemaker while plumbing the depths of this tiny country’s love for its wines.For the Love of Wine is Feiring’s emotional tale of a remarkable country and people who have survived religious wars and Soviet occupation yet managed always to keep hold of their precious wine traditions. Embedded in the narrative is the hope that Georgia has the temerity to confront its latest threat—modernization.
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Product details
Hardcover: 208 pages
Publisher: Potomac Books (March 1, 2016)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9781612347646
ISBN-13: 978-1612347646
ASIN: 1612347649
Product Dimensions:
5.8 x 1.1 x 8.6 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.6 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.2 out of 5 stars
13 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#468,278 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Georgia is one of Europe’s most under-rated countries. In the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, wedged between Russia, Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan, it is at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, an ancient land with a rich history and culture. Because of its coveted position on the ancient Silk Road crossing the formidable Caucasus Mountains, much of that history has been violent, including invasions, attacks and occupation. Despite this destruction and continual turmoil that saw the capital, Tbilisi, razed to the ground multiple times, the Georgian people have rebuilt their land and their cities, maintaining their culture, language and love of life and wine in the face of extreme adversity. This triumph has been captured superbly in Alice Feiring’s latest book, For The Love of Wine. An award-winning writer, Alice is an ardent champion of natural winemaking, who chronicles her voyage of discovery through this magical land. “It was like emerging from the magic wardrobe into a world filled with mythical characters making delicious wine,†she writes. The wine is made using an ancient process that has existed in Georgia for over 8,000 years. Indeed, evidence points to Georgia as being the cradle of wine (or “ghvino†as it is called here). That the process has survived at all is miraculous, given the lengths to which the Shahs of Persia and the Soviets, among others, went to destroy the vines. The fact that several hundred species exist today in Georgia (most of them unknown to the rest of the world) is a testament to the tenacity of the people….and the vines. I first came across For the Love of Wine while researching our trip to Georgia. I read it cover to cover in one sitting and then read it again slowly, savoring every word, every description, every image, as Alice led me on an odyssey through the country. She is so passionate and eloquent that I could almost imagine myself walking alongside her. In the process she describes how wine is made using “natural†or “organic†techniques. In the fall the grapes are stomped in a long wooden trough; the grape juice, together with skins and pips are poured into Qvevri (enormous terra cotta clay pots, the relative of Roman and Greek Amphorae) to ferment. When fermentation is complete, the grape sediment is removed. The wine is then left to age in the Qvevri, buried in the ground, anywhere from 1-8 years. No pesticides are used on the vines, and there are no yeasts, preservatives or chemicals added, just the grapes going through a natural process and turning out a unique and delicious product. As she meanders through the vineyards where kisi, mtsvane, rkatsiteli and other grapes grow, Alice Feiring introduces us to many of the local inhabitants – the farmers, winemakers, Qvevri-makers, chefs, who are embracing their roots and their traditions, notwithstanding the efforts of outsiders who arrive with their chemicals, pesticides and so-called “modern†technology to change the traditional ways. The characters come to life as she describes them – Bishop Davit, the Metropolitan of Alaverdi Monastery who “has made traditional and natural wine a mission of the church;†Zaliko, maker of qvevri in Imereti; Lamara Bezhashvili, “a fierce Kakhetian woman who embodies the spirit of natural qvevri wine.†Alice celebrates their traditions and their way of life, including their love of feasts (the supra) with wine at its core, presided over by a toastmaster (the tamada). Food after all is a necessary part of wine drinking. And Georgian food is delicious! To tantalize your taste buds, tucked away through the book you will find recipes for such delicacies as Beets with Cherry Sauce or Rose Petal Jam, interspersed in the narrative. Throughout, Alice Feiring is a passionate and outspoken defender of Georgian natural winemaking, which many believe has healing properties. After all, Georgia is one of the countries where the number of people living into their 100s far exceeds the norm elsewhere. Alice’s enthusiasm and passion is contagious. By the time the book had been finished for a second time, we couldn’t wait to travel. In fact, we were so excited by what we had read, we ran out to several New York City wine shops to look for bottles of natural Georgian wine. Imagine the glee when we ran into Alice, together with four of Georgia’s top winemakers – Nikki Antadze, Ramaz Nikoladze, John Okrasvhivili and John Wurdeman --- at a Georgian winetasting at Chambers Street Wines. Needless to say, many bottles were purchased and drunk! “Butchki!†as they say in Georgian before clinking glasses! For the Love of Wine is Alice Feiring’s latest book; her other works include Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally and The Battle for Wine and Love; of, How I Saved the World from Parkerization. If you love wine, run, don’t walk to the nearest bookstore to get copies!
I have read all of Ms Feiring's books and each one tells a story of discovery. This one is no different. Alice takes a journey to Georgia and discovers a whole lot about the making of wine there. She meets and becomes friends with winemakers and discovers the various flavors and ingredients used in their cooking. She talks in the book about the winemaking and how quevri are used. I felt that I learned a lot from her trips and discoveries in the winemaking areas of Georgia where for the most part they are making wine the old way.
This was a well written book that I wish I had had when we visited Georgia last summer. I thought the Reds were the best but I knew nothing about skins, etc. The author nailed the part about the passion of toasting with wine and the supras. It goes on and on. I found the sequence a little hard to follow and some of the areas were not shown on the map. This would be a great book to read before traveling to this wonderful country.
With humor, wine savvy and a deep understanding of the natural world, Alice Feiring writes about Georgia and its incredible wine traditions. I'm fortunate enough to be living in Georgia for a few years, and have found my wine primer!
I was born in Soviet Union. But surprisingly the truth and real history of georgian wines I have opened for myself from this book of american writer! I know very well georgian people and their depiction in this book are exact and bright. Thank you, Alice!
Fascinating. A must for wine, and wine history lovers.
great!
Georgia--the one in the Caucasus--may be the original home of Vitis vinifera, the noble wine grape. It may be the first place wine--or ghvino--was produced. Muslim invaders ripped out vines. Soviet occupiers imposed industrial production of a limited number of varietals. Yet traditional Georgian wine making somehow survived.Ancient, barely known today, grape varietals are fermented, both red and white, on their skins in qvevri (or kvevri), which are something like large amphorae buried in the ground. The author takes us on excursions through Georgia, meeting winemakers reviving the old traditions, and experiencing legendary Georgian hospitality. Every chapter ends in a recipe.So far, very interesting.Unfortunately, the author is a crusader for completely "natural", as she defines it, wine making. And she brooks no dissent.I am sympathetic to her concerns about consultants trying to make Georgian wine making into a clone of modern wine making around the world. But she rejects allowing wine makers any latitude to experiment with modern techniques in order to make even better wine, or perhaps a better living.Take yeast. She insists that wine makers allow natural yeasts to ferment the wine. The problem with this is that there are many yeasts out there, and you can get lucky or unlucky. That's why most wineries inoculate their juice with a strain of yeast known to produce good wine. But to Feiring that is not natural, even if the yeast used is an entirely natural one.She says: "Embrace all of the yeasts, including those that initially give off flavors and funky aromas." In other words, wine that's off made her way is better than wine that tastes good because the wine maker choose the yeast.Feiring describes natural wine making as "shepherding" the wine into to bottle, while commercial wine making is "coercing" the wine into the bottle. I've never been a shepherd, and I'm pretty sure she hasn't either, but it's always been my impression that part of what shepherds do is coerce the sheep into doing what the shepherd wants them to do, rather than what they want to do.The biggest problem is that she often writes like it's about her, not the Georgians. She jets in, enjoys their hospitality, and tells them the right way to make wine. (Unlike the consultants she hates who jet in and tell them the wrong way to make wine.) The Georgians are the ones risking what little capital and land they have trying to make a living. They are the ones doing the hard work. But they dare not do anything that she disapproves of. Never mind that she is better off than they are, has no money at risk, and is doing no labor other than eating their food, drinking their wine, and writing about it. She has no skin in the game, but she's always right.You might think she has really invested in understanding Georgian culture. But late in the book she learns a new word in Georgian, and notes that she now knows ten, rather than nine, words of the language. I have no doubt that she loves the Georgians. But in a somewhat condescending way.In reality, she's a tourist telling the locals how to live their lives. Concerned about re-encountering another foreigner who has a different vision of the direction Georgian wine making should take, she concludes: "If there were any more arguments, I'd be there with my people and armed with a depth of knowledge about Georgia and why the organic and natural mattered." A depth of knowledge that includes a whole ten words of the language. Gag!The publisher provided me a copy for review.
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